Author: Rae Clayton

Auriol, France

Tuesday is one of Aubagne’s market days, so we had planned to head off early this morning for the market. Well, we slept in and by the time we’d had breakfast, we decided that we would go into Aubagne after lunch.

The market is obviously only in the morning!

However, we looked about and spotted some interesting eating places for our next visit. We also successfully parked the car in a carpark – having done the necessary research. It is a much bigger town than we had first thought, but it is still quite pretty.

Aubagne is the home town of the film maker, Marcel Pagnol. Gloire de mon Pere, Le Chateau de ma Mere, Jean de Florette, and Manon des Sources are films you’ve either seen or heard about. Driving down the motorway you can see the bare hills where some of the filming took place.

On our way back through Auriol, we looked about for parking spaces for when we pop out for dinner tonight.

The roads in and around Auriol are very narrow and quite windy, so when we head out to other villages or towns, we prefer to pay the toll and go on the motorway. Gray says he’s still terrified driving, but I think he’s getting much better!!

Auriol, France

After a good night’s sleep, we got up and breakfasted on bagette, cheese and ham, but no coffee!!!!
There is a filter coffee maker, but there were no beans! No tea bags!

So into town to have coffee. It tasted so good – 24 hours since the last one!

We wandered around the town. It is really quite lovely. We spotted this amazing boulangarie and just had to go in. I’ve not ever been keen on quiche, but this one was so good!

We popped into the supermarche on our way home and stocked up with more provisions. Tonight I’m cooking my pork chop ardenaise that I do at home, but hopefully after we’ve been to some markets, cafes etc, I’ll pick up some new ideas.

After our yummy lunch and a home-made coffee, we headed off to Aubagne to see what it is like as we plan to go to the market tomorrow. we got there OK, but it was bigger than we expected, quite busy traffic and we had no idea where we were allowed to park. We headed back home to rethink some strategies for getting to markets etc etc.

Our washing is dry, so we can sleep in clean jamas tonight – yeh!!

Auriol, France

Leaving Nice had a few hairy moments – driving a manual car on the wrong side of the road in the rain was quite a challenge for Gray.

However, once we were on the motorway, the nerves calmed a little and we bounced along quite nicely until getting off at the Auriol turn off. The lady at the pay station was very understanding – it pays to learn how to apologise profusely in the native tongue!!

As we approached Auriol, the silly GPS lady sent us off onto mountain goat tracks to get to the town centre. Fortunately we had spotted a supermarche and had bought some ‘existence’ provisions for the day and that night before heading into the wilderness.
Finally we arrived in Auriol having woven our way down narrow, and I mean really narrow, back streets.

We then headed off to Patrick and Dominique’s place (they own the cottage). Oh dear! that silly lady once more contradicted our instincts and Patrick’s map wasn’t much help. Finally, I suggested a slightly different way, not going behind the shrine in the middle of the road, but from what I recalled from our look-see on Google Earth. As luck would have it we reached the house in a few moments.

Patrick showed us around our wee house. I left most of the communicating to Gray. I was most impressed as he rattled away in French!!!

We settled in. Had lunch. Did loads of washing (by hand!)

It is so nice to have unpacked and not have to live out of our suitcases for a few weeks. And our little house is gorgeous!

Bon soir!

Nice, France

This morning after breakfast we walked up to the Santa Maria Nouvella station to hop onto our first train for the day. It was very fast and comfortable, getting us to Milan by 10.30am.
We just had enough time to change platforms to get onto a not so salubrious train to Ventimiglia. Four hours later, with no air con working we finally arrived to catch our third train for the day. It was absolutely packed and as we approached Nice, more and more people were getting on.

Getting off was quite a feat. Our luggage was at the front of the carriage, along with another 20 or so cases. Pushing and shoving we managed to get off, ready for a short walk to our hotel.

Next decision – where to eat. We’d noticed lots of cafes on the way to the hotel, most of them advertising pasta and pizzas! We really didn’t want Italian food on our first night in France. Then we spotted it; a little French restaurant with fillet mignon as chef’s choice for the day. Gray had the traditional mignon, but I chose frigolles fraiche with mine. The wine was good too.

We headed back to the hotel for a much needed big sleep after 8 hours on trains.

Tomorrow we head to our cottage in Auriol.

Bon nuit!

Florence, Italy

It is hard to believe that this is our last day in Italy. Even though the time has simply rushed by, we have made the most of every moment.

This morning we headed off to Piazza Repubblica to catch our bus to go to the five villages. There were 6 of us in the van and we all got on famously. Our guide was excellent, leaving us to do our own thing most of the time. The day was bright and sunny, becoming very hot in the afternoon, but fortunately there were always shady places on our walks.

It is incredible to imagine these fishing villages were completely isolated until 1960s when roads were put in. Until then their only access in and out of each village was by boat.

For foodie friends and family, lunch was a real treat down on the harbour of Vernazza – Penne with shrimps (the size of large Aussie prawns) and Gray had Fish fettucine.

Each village was a little different from each other, but all quaint, narrow streets and interesting gardens/horticulture.

We’ve arrived back at Hotel Boccaccio pretty tired and not really looking forward to packing up for a long train journeys tomorrow as we head to Nice.

So it’s arriverderci Italia from us!

Florence, Italy

Despite being on a busy road, our room is very quiet. Unfortunately neither of us slept well – too much sun yesterday?

Straight after breakfast we headed off to the San Lorenzo market to start the shopping frenzy. It was cool and not too many people around. Some people are easier to buy for than others, so it didn’t take too long before the Euros were flowing out of his wallet!!
When we were looking for one of the less easy to shop for (yes, you Mr Design Guy) we happened upon this large shop of leather jackets and coats. The guy tried to coax us in, but we said we didn’t want jackets or coats. As we walked away he offered us 100% off!
We popped into the fruit market which smelled so good – ripe, fresh fruit! Bought some bits and headed back.

When we were about to pass the man and his jackets, Gray reminded him that he’d offered us 100% off and we’d come back to choose!! You can imagine the banter that followed as well as the RWC.
I tried on a coat and on hearing the price, promptly hung it up again. A few minutes later we are walking out his shop with the coat. Now how did that happen?
Mind you, it is absolutely gorgeous!!! Wearing it to the concert in Vienna!!
Isn’t my man lovely?

After a pause away from the heat we were off again soon to do some more shopping. We knew where the shop was, thanks to Google earth!!!

Shopping over for today,(loved the ‘posh’ shops) we rested until wandering out to dinner. This time we shared a pescare and only ordered primi pasta courses – much more our size. The Toscan chianti is very good!
It now feels like bedtime as we have to be up early to do our Cinque Terre trip tomorrow.

Ciao till next time!

Florence, Italy

Firenze

We arrived in Florence at 1.30pm after traveling on a provincial train that made many stops. The countryside became more interesting as we headed north, with market gardens, olive trees etc. It is reasonably green even though it is the end of summer.

It was so hot – another 32 degree day – so we didn’t venture far after we checked into our hotel. “The first time in Florence you must have a room with a view.”

Not sure what to make of the cherubs above the bed!

Another fabulous dinner, this time at a pizzeria a few metres away. We had tomato soup that was fullbodied and had fresh bread crushed into it. That doesn’t sound very appetising, but it was absolutely delicious. We both ordered pizza and didn’t pick up on the waitress’ query that we wanted one each. They were huge, cooked in an oven in front of customers.
Guess who is having cold pizza for lunch when we head out shopping tomorrow?
Yes, tomorrow is shopping day. Now who is the ‘first’ grand daughter?

Rome, Italy

The trip from Singapore to Frankfurt is best forgotten!

We arrived in Rome yesterday 12th September, feeling exhausted. We waited 45 minutes before our luggage appeared – 10 flights per carousel, so imagine the crowds!! Hopped onto the train to Termini station with several hundreds of others. Temperature – 32 degrees.

Our hotel is absolutely delightful in a quiet street surrounded by excellent eateries. The pescare is to die for! Last night we enjoyed dinner at Mamma Angela’s which is about 20 metres away.

I had a seafood risotto and Gray, a lasagne. I gather I have to work on my version of lasagne if it is to equal what he ate!
Streets are lined with motorbikes – far too many Japanese bikes, but did spot a good old Vespa.

We slept like logs.

After breakfast we headed off on the Metro to the Colosseum – such intrepid travellers. We went in the wrong direction only once!
I was suddenly in my latin class of 1959 as we stepped out onto the road from Colesseo Station – quite overwhelming!

There are still truckloads, actually busloads, of tourists about.

After lunch where we were given a complimentary grappo,

we walked down to the Bocca bella Verita in true Audrey and Gregory style. As you can see Gray passed the test! He still has his hand.

We are loving the coffee and feel insulted when offered Cafe Americana!

Rome, Italy

Oh dear, when you are offered free lemonccello at the end of a meal you know you have spent lots of money – but it was so worth it!!

We set off for the Trevi fountain at about 6pm when it was slightly cooler. Gray was navigator, planning the trip whilst I had a teeny tiny Nana nap back at the hotel.
After a short trip we came up out of the Metro to see a fountain! Not where we had expected it to be, and almost no-one around it. Perhaps this was real luck? But some intense map checking proved it was the wrong one!

However, all was sorted when he found the right one.

The crowds were still quite large and I wasn’t keen to push through them to get down to the edge.

I guessed that none of them would have understood that I’d been waiting to throw my coins in since I was about 12 years old. Gray had them ready in his pocket.

In the end it was enough to savour the moment and enjoy the atmosphere.
We decided to find a trattoria on the way back to the station to have our dinner.

In true Clayton fashion we found an amazing restorante and spent a wonderful time appreciating excellent food and wine. Anyone going to Rome, I’d certainly recommend Il Vineto restaurant.

Back at our little hotel, we feel relaxed, ready to face packing up and heading to Firenze tomorrow.

Arrivederci Roma

At long last we’re off to ‘Far Away Places with Strange Sounding Names – our long-awaited, and often delayed – trip to Italy & the South of France. We’re still not ready, but this time we’re going anyway. Once we’re on the plane heading north over the Pacific we’re going to put work and business worries behind us and Have A Holiday. Our aim is to be ‘Not Tourists’. Not to stay in tourist hotels, not to take (too may) guided tours, but to try to infiltrate the life of these countries and find out what’s behind the Travel Poster blurb. Eat like locals, find the history important to locals, live in a village for a bit. Sounds impossible? yes, probably, but hopefully fun trying anyway 😉

Auckland, New Zealand